Salzburg
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| Hohensalzburg from Mirabell Gardens |
The Castle of Salt
Salzburg, Austria is a UNESCO World Heritage city near the German border,
surrounded by lakes and mountains, with the Salzach river running through its
centre. In German, “Salz” means salt, and “burg” means castle, but more on that
later.
Getting There
Salzburg is closer to Munich in Germany, than to the capital of Vienna. The best
way to get there is to fly into Munich Airport. From there, all you need is a
Bavaria-Ticket or a suitable Eurail Pass for onward travel. The S-bahn (train)
takes you to Munich central station, and from there it is 90 minutes to Salzburg
every hour. The best times to visit for pleasant weather are May and September
or, for winter sports and the Christmas market, mid-December.
Staying
The most prestigious hotel
in town is the Hotel Sacher, which offers Austrian hospitality in accommodation
of imperial splendour. Like its sister hotel in Vienna, it also serves Original
Sacher Torte at its café. There are many other options, including Holiday Inn
and Ramada, and for backpackers, the excellent Jufa Salzburg Hostel.
Getting around
Travel need not be expensive. A 24-hour card is €4.20, and the week-card €14.60.
The Salzburg Card, targeted at tourists, is valid between 24 and 72 hours, and
includes entrance fees to major attractions and transport, only good value for
those visiting many of them.
Sights
Salzburg was the birthplace of the composer Mozart. The Birthplace museum (Geburtshaus)
and another residence (Wohnhaus) are open to visitors. An even larger number of
tourists are drawn because it was the location for the Hollywood movie, “Sound
of Music” (1965).
Many Austrians have heard about it, but most of them have never seen it.
Salzburg residents dislike the crowds of tourists that arrive and sing (to them)
inane tunes.
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| Mirabell Gardens |
The Mirabell, one of many palaces with flower gardens, fountains
and ornate gates, statues and buildings, was the setting for the “Do-Re-Mi”
sequence. The Hellbrunn Palace, with its trick fountains, is where the gazebo
used for “I am Sixteen, Going on Seventeen” has been reassembled. The
breathtaking views of the city from the gates of Nonnberg Abbey, the
Hohensalzburg fortress on the hill and the baroque beauty and terraces of the
old town, especially its cathedral, are some of the other main sights.
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| View from the Nonnberg Abbey |
Eat and Drink
Fraulein Maria’s favourite Schnitzel with Noodles is not available
despite many requests for it, much to the annoyance of restaurateurs. You will
never go hungry in Salzburg - there are many options serving a variety of
cuisine. Budget options include big pizza and gyros/döner (a Greek/Turkish pita
bread wrap). Café Tomaselli like the Café Central in Vienna, has long been a
meeting place for artistes. At these cafés, sip a variety of coffees and enjoy
the atmosphere of the old town. Only a naďve tourist would order just “a coffee”
- there is a range of interesting options. Try a “Fiaker” (with brandy) or an “Einspänner”.
Mozartkugeln (chocolate balls, with a picture of the composer on the wrapping)
are popular edible souvenirs.
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| Mozartplatz Chess |
To Do
The Salzburg Easter Festival is one of the best for opera in the world, and
usually has the Vienna Philharmonic in the pit (until 2011, the Berlin
Philharmonic Orchestra was resident). For the kids, The Salzburg Marionette
Theatre stages Mozart operas with wooden puppets. In winter, a thick blanket of
snow whiter than salt covers the city and its lakes and ponds, so skiing,
skating and other sports become popular. The funicular ride (Festbahn) up to the
fortress is a panoramic and rewarding experience. Listen to the glockenspiel (a
set of bells) which plays forty tunes at the Neue Residenz (new palace), or
wonderful street musicians on the cobblestoned paths. Locals play “giant chess”
at Mozartplatz (square) near the statue. Ride horse drawn carriages, take a boat
ride on the river or enjoy the company of the Austrian people (only the older
generation do not speak English) to add to the memories you take home.
Go Out
Panorama Tours, the bus company which provided transport for the movie in 1964,
has daily bus departures on the “Original Sound of Music Tour”, and others. You
can visit the famous little chapel where Franz Gruber wrote the carol “Silent
Night”, by taking a train to Oberndorf (25 minutes away). There are a number of
scenic locations in the “Salzkammergut” (lake district).
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| Wolfgangsee, from St. Gilgen |
St. Gilgen, the birthplace of Mozart’s mother, is an economical
base to explore the region over a longer period. Popular tourist destinations
are accessible by trains and public transport. The main ones are: the pretty
lakeside village of Hallstatt, Bad Ischl with its views of the spectacular
Dachstein glacier, Hitler’s Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle’s nest) at Berchtesgaden, and
the Hallein & Dürnberg Salt Mines in the south (after which the city was named).
Those who think Austria only consists of the imperial majesty of
Vienna, are missing out on a gem of natural, cultural and scenic interest – the
beauty of Salzburg.
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